DESCENDING THE UNKNOWN RIVERS OF GIRONA, CATALONIA
Agata Sobieraj-Jakubiec on the Llierca Gorge. ©Quim Fontané
The province of Girona in Catalonia is not exactly a go-to place when asked to look for some sick whitewater. But what if we told you that, with just a little more rain, it could easily rank among the most diverse paddling destinations in Europe?
At first glance, Girona Province and the Costa Brava are better known for sun-soaked beaches, plagued with elderly Dutch nudists, doped-up wannabe road cyclists, and drunk German holidaymakers looking for cheap beer and parties. However, every once in a while, when Mediterranean storms hit, it is the local whitewater community that throws a party. The dry riverbeds start flowing, boats come off roof racks, group chats light up, and paddlers start chasing the water across the province.
Pol Montserrat down a sick slide on the Riera d’Osor. ©Quim Fontané
Llierca Gorge. ©Quim Fontané
For a brief, glorious window, Girona transforms into a playground of surprisingly good whitewater. From epic volcanic park-and-hucks that you could easily mistake for Mexican stouts, such as the Santa Margarida waterfall, to granite paradises like the Riu d’Arnera, the Ter Gorge, or the Riera d’Osor, and the deep limestone gorges of the Llierca and Sant Aniol, you can find virtually any paddling style you could think of within just a few kilometers. But among all these gems, the Llierca basin shines the brightest.
« For a brief, glorious window, Girona transforms into a playground of surprisingly good whitewater »
Tucked deep within the rugged landscapes of Alta Garrotxa, the Llierca offers more than 25 kilometers of Class IV-V whitewater flowing through one of the most remote corners of the region and has at least three paddleable tributaries. This river has become something of a legend among local paddlers.
Quim Fontané on the Riera de Beget ©Oriol Gelí
The river was first descended in the 1990s, then forgotten for the next three decades. In 2019, local paddler Quim Fontané began exploring the basin again, documenting lines and sharing the potential of the Llierca with the local community. Slowly, the Llierca returned to the spotlight and is now being paddled regularly every time the rain hits.
Words & Photography: Joaquim Fontané i Masó
