The Fontolière Meeting: A Kayaker’s Tradition in Ardèche, France
Each year, a gathering of whitewater enthusiasts takes place on the Fontolière River in Ardèche, France. Mathieu Monier takes us into these landscapes and shows us why this event draws so many paddlers year after year.
Imagine this: you’re a tiny water molecule, floating in a cloud high above southern France. It’s Saturday, September 20th, the final day of summer, and the perfect moment to fall from the sky and begin your journey down to the rivers below.
You’re hovering over the rugged peaks of the Ardèche mountains when you spot the Mont Gerbier de Jonc, a striking volcanic dome that marks the watershed divide of France. Depending on which side you fall, you’ll either make your way to the Atlantic Ocean or the Mediterranean Sea.
Today, gravity pulls you down into the streams of the Fontolière. You swim past ancient stone mills and through narrow gorges until you’re suddenly stopped, trapped behind a dam. But just on the other side, you hear the growing buzz of excitement. Over 200 kayakers are gathered, eagerly awaiting the dam’s release. They’re here for one thing: to experience the rapids of the Fontolière in full flow.
As the gates open and you surge forward, you’re surprised to see paddlers of all skill levels, from first-timers to seasoned pros, navigating the rapids. And yet, this river includes a solid Class IV rapid. Why would clubs bring beginners here? Floating alongside the paddlers, you soon understand. Dozens of volunteers from the local club, ACKRA (Aubenas Canoë Kayak Rafting Ardèche), are stationed along the river to ensure everyone’s safety. Their presence creates a reassuring safety net, allowing even the newest paddlers to experience the descent with confidence.
The journey continues downstream, winding through forested valleys and scenic vistas until a medieval fortress comes into view, the Château de Ventadour, perched above the confluence of the Fontolière with the Ardèche River.
But before you finish your run on the Fontolière, there’s one final challenge ahead: the Ventadour Rapid, a fierce wave train with a powerful hydraulic stopper at the bottom, waiting to test the ones who dare face it. Spectators line the banks, cheering as kayakers take on the rapid in a friendly rodeo-style competition. Rescue divers are in place to fish out the unlucky swimmers, while others put on a show, performing quick turns, catching eddies, and even pausing mid-rapid to snag a sip of beer from a safety paddler stationed on the side. The energy is electric.
Past the Ventadour, you merge peacefully into the Ardèche River and begin the calm flow southward. But the sounds of celebration stay with you for a little longer. Just a few hundred meters downstream, a campground is alive with music and laughter. A rock concert kicks off and all 200 paddlers gather for a well-earned meal and a night of music, laughter, and dancing, hosted once again by the amazing crew at ACKRA.
Tomorrow, you’ll continue your serene journey toward the famous Pont d’Arc and the stunning Gorges de l’Ardèche, while the kayakers return to the Fontolière for another round of whitewater, ready once again to take on the mighty Ventadour.
Words: Mathieu Monier | Photography: Coline Charel
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