Uttaranchal and Arunachal Pradesh, India 2007
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Our international team of six whitewater kayakers arrived and met in India on October 14th. During a two month expedition period our intention is to descent previously unchartered river catchments in the Himalayan mountains of Uttaranchal and Arunachal Pradesh.
Our team will meet in Delhi before traveling 250 kilometres north into the Himalayas. Our kayaking will commence with three weeks exploring some of the small creeks feeding the Ganges in the neighboring region of Uttranchal situated west of Nepal.
In Kathmandu on November 19th Shalab, Sam and myself will join Mikey Abbott and Allan Ellard (paddlers of super-duper legend status)
We will then travel to the far northeastern corner of India, Arunachal Pradesh. In this area the Brahmaputra river caves its way off the Tibetan plateau and flows into India and Bangladesh. It’s a region with a plethora of free flowing high elevation rivers. This area is virgin territory in terms of kayaking exploration. Mikey, Shalab and Al are without a doubt the most educated people with regards to exploratory kayaking in India.
The team :
This year we have reunited half of our team from last years ‘7 weeks in Tibet’ expedition, (www.athwak.blogspot.com), with the addition of some new members.
Sangrup, from Ladakh, is our driver. As well as driving through the night on dangerous roads to get us to the rivers, he is doing a stunning job at road support while we paddle.
Finally, our trip leader and head of security. Kaia is a 2 year old street dog from Leh, and is responsible for taking care of our bags in the night.
The situation out there…
Our vision in traveling to the rivers of Arunachal Pradesh is to create international exposure in the whitewater community as to the proposed development of hydroelectricity. Our hope is to raise the awareness of what the Indian government has proposed and the weakening of social and environmental guidelines of the World Bank.
The Government of India is committed to a huge acceleration in dam construction. In May 2003, it announced plans to increase the country’s hydropower capacity by 50,000 megawatts by 2013. With 89 dams proposed for the region before 2013 Arunachal Pradesh is soon to experience rapid change. The severity of the environmental impact these projects present will bring extreme disturbance to precious river ecosystems. Any large-scale diversion of river water will throw the ecological equilibrium out of balance, endangering wildlife and ecosystems as well as livelihoods. Large-scale river diversions change the water chemistry, sedimentation patterns and flow regimes of rivers and can seriously impede their capacity to purify themselves. Their ability to sustain life is then put at risk.
Of major concern is the shaky nature of this geological zone. Earthquakes and landslides are commonplace.
The “Program of Interlinking Rivers” has irreversible consequences. It is quite possible that our first descents of India’s rivers could be the last.
Between the extremes of flood and drought, India is heading for a water crisis. As the third- largest dam builder in the world India has a major history with hydroelectric power. The 4,291 large dams built so far have helped to grow more grains, making the country self-sufficient in food production. Large dams also provide roughly a third of India’s electricity.
In 2012 the Indian government is set begin development of a project titled “Garland of Rivers”, a multinational river-linking project that would connect 37 major rivers through a series of dams and canals spanning the subcontinent. The project is intended to offset devastating regional cycles of drought and flood, provide rural and urban populations with stable supplies of drinking water, and harness some 34,000 megawatts of hydroelectricity. The scope of the Garland of Rivers, which calls for cooperation from neighboring Bangladesh, Nepal, and Bhutan, is unparalleled in Asia; One ‘garland’ canal, parallel to the Himalayas, would connect most of the northern tributaries of the Ganges as well as the Brahmaputra river system.
But since 1947 – the year India became independent – an estimated 40 million people have been displaced by dam projects. There is no national policy for rehabilitating them and most have landed up as beggars or daily laborers. Millions of hectares of precious natural forest and fertile alluvial farmlands have been buried under reservoirs.
In the region of Arunachal Pradesh alone dams will submerge thousands of hectares of land, including some towns, and displace more than 30,000 people.
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal and Arunachal Pradesh, India 2007(2)
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Arriving in New Dehli...
First things first, our team has managed to elude "Delhi Belly” so far. Having avoided upset stomachs and poor health we are ready to hit the road.
Our team finally managed to group together after having flown in from our various locations around the world. This in itself has been somewhat of a challenge, and not uneventful.
Zak’s kayak has been ‘forgotten’ by United Airlines and left in San Francisco. A major "trade show" and "festivals" suddenly came to life as we arrived and caught us all by surprise. None of these activities actually took place we were just victims of some dodgy dealings and were caught out by sly taxi drivers.
Their ability to spot the weakened traveller who has flown around the world with a kayak and sell an elaborate plan during the early hours of morning was quite impressive.
We all shared stories of the unusual fees we were asked to pay that night by rickshaw drivers and the not so lucky happenings. After three days my kayak is yet to arrive, Steve has been robbed and Ben had an oncoming rickshaw driver try to snatch his bag needless to say we are eagerly awaiting my kayak's arrival so we can head to the mountains!
Delhi is an overwhelming place. Its high paced chaos hits you in the face twenty four hours a day. Street beggars, constant harassment from sales men and women, dogs, cows, bikes, flying scooters and rickshaws all jostling for space. Everyone is in a hurry with the horn blazing. In Delhi space doesn't exist.
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal Expedition, India 2007(3)
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
After finally getting all our kit together and getting out of Delhi, we have had an eventful week.
Our main goal for this trip is to explore the unpaddled headwaters of the main drainages in Utturanchal. The region is currently undergoing major developments in Hydropower. Not only will many of the rivers be lost for future generations, but also the upheaval to the ancient communities will be devastating.
Utturanchal is in Northern India, just west of Nepal. It is a region of pristine forest clad mountains, and 6000m snow capped peaks.
We began by heading up the Yamuna valley, and straight into a first descent. Due to low water levels at this time of year we managed to spend 2 days paddling the classic steep upper stretch of the Yamuna River between Phoolchatti and Saynachatti.
With expectation high we drove over to the next main drainage to the west, and the headwaters of the Tons River.
However after a couple of days spent inspecting the Obra (Supin), we came to the conclusion that at a gradient of 80m/km, and several 200m vertical walled gorges, that at least at these water levels it was best to leave it unrun.
More optimistic about the other main tributary, we hired porters, and hiked with our boats up the Har-ki-dun (upper Tons). However the following day, after only paddling the first 800m, we came to the mouth of a formidable looking gorge, and after failing to walk around it, spent the next 6 and a half hours climbing the 400m out of the main canyon back to the trail, and from there back to the road head.
All hurting from these days of hard labour, we spent a well earned day paddling a known stretch of the Rupin River, and are now making our way towards the Bhilangana drainage. We hope to have more luck there, and will keep you posted.
Follow the trip on:
www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com
www.passion4adventure@blogspot.com
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal team arrested!
Facing 2 month prison sentence.
Words by Sam Hugues
November 2nd
We have very limited interet access just now.
At the moment we have no images available as much of our equipment has been confiscated.
Here is a statement:
Our team has just been released after being held in detention by armed guards for the past 24 hours, without food or water. At one point we had been looking at a drawn out court case, with a possible 2 month prison sentence. Early this morning we managed to Œnegotiate¹ our release for $500.
Our offense! Kayaking a in the protected area of Nunda Davi, without a permit. This has thrown up a heap of beauracy, and contradictions within the Indian legal system.
In Uttaranchal, no Œkayak¹ permit exists, so it is not possible to be in possession of one. On entering the Nunda Davi region we enquired at the local tourist office, and were told we did not need a permit to enter this area, as we had done in other national parks we have been paddling in. On the way up the Dhauli Ganga drainage, we passed only one check point which was unmanned.
However in the afternoon of 31st October, we were picked up from the river, our equipment confiscated, and were escorted under armed guard to a military base in Joshimat, where we have been held.
One of our offences was for environmental damages caused to a protected biosphere. The irony is that the forestry commission has sold dozens of permits to Hydro power companies to construct dams. The environmental impact we have seen from these by the destruction of natural habitats, displacement of local communities, and destruction of the forest, which has been cut down to provide fire wood for the migrant work force, is huge in comparison to that of 6 kayakers floating down the river!
We are now back on the road, but with many of the official in the region having been informed about our presence, we are unsure if we will be able to continue exploring this region as hoped.
India, intense and unpredictable
Words by Zak Shaw
With our tail between our legs we have traveled east from the Ton’s and Supin drainages looking to gain the upper hand.
During a days driving we passed by what is effectively now the source of the Ganges, the Tehri Dam. The project is an astonishing site as continual maintenance is needed to the fragile landscape.
As the most spiritual river in all of India, proposing to dam the Ganges was a bold move those involved aimed and attacked at the biggest prize of all first.
The damming of the Ganges has set huge precedents over current and future hydro plans. In Shalab’s words “It has put a complete stop to the anti dam movement in India”
It seems that if a waterway as sacred as the Ganges can be altered on such a massive scale that moral ethics are being pushed aside and the floodgates of dam construction are now open. The spiritual significance of all rivers is irrelevant here now, the money in dams is astounding.
27th/28th (Image to come) Ben Jackson enjoys one of the cool moves during our two day 30km descent of the Bhilangna.
29th We spent two days in the Markidani catchment and paddled a great big water run with impressive mountain views. Ben Jackson gets some local advice.
31st Pausing briefly and the entrance to the Nanda Devi Wildlife Sanctuary Biosphere we made enquiries for the necessary permits we would need before entering the National Park.
A phone call to a local trekking company informed us we could venture into the biosphere and look at the Dhauli Ganga without entering into the National Park. Along the way we passed two un-maned checkpoint stations and had no real idea that we were about to get ourselves in a whole world of shit.
We paddled an awesome section starting at 3000m and found the best whitewater of our travels thus far.
Locals offered us the school building as shelter as leopards in the area are common and have killed five people recently in other areas. We returned to the put in the following morning. Whilst paddling downriver we waved at locals and some smart looking officials in uniform. I thought nothing of it.
At the take out we we met by seven officers armed with rifles and shotguns and instructed that we would be escourted to the forest park headquarters two hours drive away. There faces held stern look initially but they quickly warmed to us, we drank tea and held their guns. One officer traveled in our vehicle while we followed jj and his new found friends in the pilot vehicle. JJ liked their trucks curtains.
Back in Joshimath we filled out lots of forms, written statements, were interviewed individually and we debated our case with the Forest Park director. This began at 4pm and we retired to the Forest Park/Police/Army compound and were detained for the night at 2am. With maximum fines a potential court hearing and two month imprisonment over our heads we continued on with the interrogation and finally walked away with a fine of 20,000 rupees/ $500 US. This is the average annual income in India.
We had broken no laws or legislation as there is none for kayaking. We are bit confussed with what we actually did wrong, maybe trespassing as we allowed on the road but no in the tress off the road….
Anyway we were all a bit fired up after a really long day with not alot of sleep and 30 hours with one meal. At least the next team here wont have the same trouble.
“India consumes you, its never quiet, never slows down and is always in your face”
The next day we pulled a 12 day old body from the Alaknanda river. Thirteen people had plunged in an overloaded bus. With kayaks and ropes we recovered the man and handed himback to his grieving family. They would then be able to collect insurance money.We finished the 18km section of big volume whitewater but none of us were that focused on the river. My brain had no more room, our thoughts were elsewhere.
We are now in the far east of Uttaranchal. Yesterday we scouted the Pindar river to no avail in the morning. In the pm we drove to the banks of the Gali Ganga. We have high hopes for this river this week before we cross the border into Nepal.
Words by Zak Shaw
mission completed Uttaranchal
Our team has just arrived in Kathmandu (Nepal), for what is the end of our first leg of the trip.
Since being detained we have managed to cover some good ground and knock of some more classics as we have headed east. This time we put in some extra effort to make friends with the police in the region before hitting the rivers!
We spent some time exploring the Pinda and Sarju drainages, but our main achievments have been to paddle what we believe to be the first descent of the Eastern Dhauli Ganga. This is one of the major tributaries of the Maha Kali, (which forms the border between India and Nepal).
The Dhauli proved intense from the word go, running at aproximately 30 cummecs and a continuous gradient of about 60m/km. Big, fast rapids lead relentlessly into one another, often forcing the team to run large sections of difficult water blind. We managed to complete an 8km section from the road head to the dam, but unfortunately as we were running out of time did not have the possiblity to trek above the road head the explore the upper river.
With only one day remaining we ran a known classic section of the Ghali Ganga (another tributary to the Kali), before making the long 3 day drive to Kathmandu.
We now have 4 days in Nepal to eat as much as we can at the rodeo event, before we start on our second leg of the trip in Arunachal Pradesh.
Mission 2, Arunachal Pradesh
On the 18th we will set off for another long drive, to get the 1500km on bad roads to Arunachal Pradesh, in the far North East of India. This is a region set aside from the main bulk of India, sandwiched between Bhutan, Bangladesh and China. Arunanchal has only opened up for travelers in the past few years, and with only short term permits available, the area is still largely unexplored. Not much travel information is available about this large province of India, and the Lonley Planet guidebook only dedicates a single page to it.
There is the most concentrated number of rivers anywhere in India in Arunachal Pradesh, and it is believed there is enough Hydro-power potential to power the whole of india. This of course means there are already plans to Dam many of the drainages, so time is short for exploration here.
Our team for this trip will be Sam Hughes (UK), Zak Shaw (NZ), Shalabh Gahaut (India), Mikey Abbot (NZ), Al Ellard (UK) and Andy Phillips (UK).
Blogs:
www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com
www.passion4adventure.blogspot.com
Websites:
www.paclandphoto.com
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Our international team of six whitewater kayakers arrived and met in India on October 14th. During a two month expedition period our intention is to descent previously unchartered river catchments in the Himalayan mountains of Uttaranchal and Arunachal Pradesh.
Our team will meet in Delhi before traveling 250 kilometres north into the Himalayas. Our kayaking will commence with three weeks exploring some of the small creeks feeding the Ganges in the neighboring region of Uttranchal situated west of Nepal.
In Kathmandu on November 19th Shalab, Sam and myself will join Mikey Abbott and Allan Ellard (paddlers of super-duper legend status)
We will then travel to the far northeastern corner of India, Arunachal Pradesh. In this area the Brahmaputra river caves its way off the Tibetan plateau and flows into India and Bangladesh. It’s a region with a plethora of free flowing high elevation rivers. This area is virgin territory in terms of kayaking exploration. Mikey, Shalab and Al are without a doubt the most educated people with regards to exploratory kayaking in India.
The team :
This year we have reunited half of our team from last years ‘7 weeks in Tibet’ expedition, (www.athwak.blogspot.com), with the addition of some new members.
| Sam Hughes, a British photographer and architect based in Norway. www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com www.paclandphoto.com |
 |
 |
Zak Shaw from New Zealand brings his smooth style to the team. Check out his blog: www.passion4adventure.blogspot.com |
| Jason ‘JJ’ Shepherd, from South Carolina. JJ’s trademark style is cleaning rapids without a single paddle stroke. He describes himself as “…looking like Mr. Burns when I’m naked!” |  |
 |
Shalabh Gahlaut is a local Indian paddler that I met in Ladakh last year. His incredible knowledge of the region, and Hindi language is proving an invaluable contribution to the team. Much of what we are doing would be impossible without him. His best phrase so far is, “Don’t trust your judgment, trust mine!”. www.kayakindia.com |
| Ben Jackson is another Kiwi, who has worked as a kayak instructor with Zak in both NZ and California. His good sense of humor and laid back attitude is a great asset to the group dynamics. www.jacksonoutdoors.blogspot.com |
 |
 |
Steve Bates, another Brit, met JJ in the states, and decided to join us for the trip. Known as ‘Scuba the wise’, he puts us all to shame with his vast knowledge! |
Sangrup, from Ladakh, is our driver. As well as driving through the night on dangerous roads to get us to the rivers, he is doing a stunning job at road support while we paddle.
Finally, our trip leader and head of security. Kaia is a 2 year old street dog from Leh, and is responsible for taking care of our bags in the night.
The situation out there…
Our vision in traveling to the rivers of Arunachal Pradesh is to create international exposure in the whitewater community as to the proposed development of hydroelectricity. Our hope is to raise the awareness of what the Indian government has proposed and the weakening of social and environmental guidelines of the World Bank.
The Government of India is committed to a huge acceleration in dam construction. In May 2003, it announced plans to increase the country’s hydropower capacity by 50,000 megawatts by 2013. With 89 dams proposed for the region before 2013 Arunachal Pradesh is soon to experience rapid change. The severity of the environmental impact these projects present will bring extreme disturbance to precious river ecosystems. Any large-scale diversion of river water will throw the ecological equilibrium out of balance, endangering wildlife and ecosystems as well as livelihoods. Large-scale river diversions change the water chemistry, sedimentation patterns and flow regimes of rivers and can seriously impede their capacity to purify themselves. Their ability to sustain life is then put at risk.
Of major concern is the shaky nature of this geological zone. Earthquakes and landslides are commonplace.
The “Program of Interlinking Rivers” has irreversible consequences. It is quite possible that our first descents of India’s rivers could be the last.
Between the extremes of flood and drought, India is heading for a water crisis. As the third- largest dam builder in the world India has a major history with hydroelectric power. The 4,291 large dams built so far have helped to grow more grains, making the country self-sufficient in food production. Large dams also provide roughly a third of India’s electricity.
In 2012 the Indian government is set begin development of a project titled “Garland of Rivers”, a multinational river-linking project that would connect 37 major rivers through a series of dams and canals spanning the subcontinent. The project is intended to offset devastating regional cycles of drought and flood, provide rural and urban populations with stable supplies of drinking water, and harness some 34,000 megawatts of hydroelectricity. The scope of the Garland of Rivers, which calls for cooperation from neighboring Bangladesh, Nepal, and Bhutan, is unparalleled in Asia; One ‘garland’ canal, parallel to the Himalayas, would connect most of the northern tributaries of the Ganges as well as the Brahmaputra river system.
But since 1947 – the year India became independent – an estimated 40 million people have been displaced by dam projects. There is no national policy for rehabilitating them and most have landed up as beggars or daily laborers. Millions of hectares of precious natural forest and fertile alluvial farmlands have been buried under reservoirs.
In the region of Arunachal Pradesh alone dams will submerge thousands of hectares of land, including some towns, and displace more than 30,000 people.
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal and Arunachal Pradesh, India 2007(2)
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Arriving in New Dehli...
Our team finally managed to group together after having flown in from our various locations around the world. This in itself has been somewhat of a challenge, and not uneventful.
Zak’s kayak has been ‘forgotten’ by United Airlines and left in San Francisco. A major "trade show" and "festivals" suddenly came to life as we arrived and caught us all by surprise. None of these activities actually took place we were just victims of some dodgy dealings and were caught out by sly taxi drivers.
Their ability to spot the weakened traveller who has flown around the world with a kayak and sell an elaborate plan during the early hours of morning was quite impressive.
We all shared stories of the unusual fees we were asked to pay that night by rickshaw drivers and the not so lucky happenings. After three days my kayak is yet to arrive, Steve has been robbed and Ben had an oncoming rickshaw driver try to snatch his bag needless to say we are eagerly awaiting my kayak's arrival so we can head to the mountains!
Delhi is an overwhelming place. Its high paced chaos hits you in the face twenty four hours a day. Street beggars, constant harassment from sales men and women, dogs, cows, bikes, flying scooters and rickshaws all jostling for space. Everyone is in a hurry with the horn blazing. In Delhi space doesn't exist.
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal Expedition, India 2007(3)
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
After finally getting all our kit together and getting out of Delhi, we have had an eventful week.
Utturanchal is in Northern India, just west of Nepal. It is a region of pristine forest clad mountains, and 6000m snow capped peaks.
We began by heading up the Yamuna valley, and straight into a first descent. Due to low water levels at this time of year we managed to spend 2 days paddling the classic steep upper stretch of the Yamuna River between Phoolchatti and Saynachatti.
With expectation high we drove over to the next main drainage to the west, and the headwaters of the Tons River.
However after a couple of days spent inspecting the Obra (Supin), we came to the conclusion that at a gradient of 80m/km, and several 200m vertical walled gorges, that at least at these water levels it was best to leave it unrun.
More optimistic about the other main tributary, we hired porters, and hiked with our boats up the Har-ki-dun (upper Tons). However the following day, after only paddling the first 800m, we came to the mouth of a formidable looking gorge, and after failing to walk around it, spent the next 6 and a half hours climbing the 400m out of the main canyon back to the trail, and from there back to the road head.
All hurting from these days of hard labour, we spent a well earned day paddling a known stretch of the Rupin River, and are now making our way towards the Bhilangana drainage. We hope to have more luck there, and will keep you posted.
Follow the trip on:
www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com
www.passion4adventure@blogspot.com
Words and photos by Zach Shaw, Sam Hugues and Sarah Potter
Uttaranchal team arrested!
Facing 2 month prison sentence.
Words by Sam Hugues
November 2nd
We have very limited interet access just now.
At the moment we have no images available as much of our equipment has been confiscated.
Here is a statement:
Our team has just been released after being held in detention by armed guards for the past 24 hours, without food or water. At one point we had been looking at a drawn out court case, with a possible 2 month prison sentence. Early this morning we managed to Œnegotiate¹ our release for $500.
Our offense! Kayaking a in the protected area of Nunda Davi, without a permit. This has thrown up a heap of beauracy, and contradictions within the Indian legal system.
In Uttaranchal, no Œkayak¹ permit exists, so it is not possible to be in possession of one. On entering the Nunda Davi region we enquired at the local tourist office, and were told we did not need a permit to enter this area, as we had done in other national parks we have been paddling in. On the way up the Dhauli Ganga drainage, we passed only one check point which was unmanned.
However in the afternoon of 31st October, we were picked up from the river, our equipment confiscated, and were escorted under armed guard to a military base in Joshimat, where we have been held.
One of our offences was for environmental damages caused to a protected biosphere. The irony is that the forestry commission has sold dozens of permits to Hydro power companies to construct dams. The environmental impact we have seen from these by the destruction of natural habitats, displacement of local communities, and destruction of the forest, which has been cut down to provide fire wood for the migrant work force, is huge in comparison to that of 6 kayakers floating down the river!
We are now back on the road, but with many of the official in the region having been informed about our presence, we are unsure if we will be able to continue exploring this region as hoped.
India, intense and unpredictable
Words by Zak Shaw
With our tail between our legs we have traveled east from the Ton’s and Supin drainages looking to gain the upper hand.
During a days driving we passed by what is effectively now the source of the Ganges, the Tehri Dam. The project is an astonishing site as continual maintenance is needed to the fragile landscape.
As the most spiritual river in all of India, proposing to dam the Ganges was a bold move those involved aimed and attacked at the biggest prize of all first.
The damming of the Ganges has set huge precedents over current and future hydro plans. In Shalab’s words “It has put a complete stop to the anti dam movement in India”
It seems that if a waterway as sacred as the Ganges can be altered on such a massive scale that moral ethics are being pushed aside and the floodgates of dam construction are now open. The spiritual significance of all rivers is irrelevant here now, the money in dams is astounding.
27th/28th (Image to come) Ben Jackson enjoys one of the cool moves during our two day 30km descent of the Bhilangna.
29th We spent two days in the Markidani catchment and paddled a great big water run with impressive mountain views. Ben Jackson gets some local advice.
31st Pausing briefly and the entrance to the Nanda Devi Wildlife Sanctuary Biosphere we made enquiries for the necessary permits we would need before entering the National Park.
A phone call to a local trekking company informed us we could venture into the biosphere and look at the Dhauli Ganga without entering into the National Park. Along the way we passed two un-maned checkpoint stations and had no real idea that we were about to get ourselves in a whole world of shit.
We paddled an awesome section starting at 3000m and found the best whitewater of our travels thus far.
Locals offered us the school building as shelter as leopards in the area are common and have killed five people recently in other areas. We returned to the put in the following morning. Whilst paddling downriver we waved at locals and some smart looking officials in uniform. I thought nothing of it.
At the take out we we met by seven officers armed with rifles and shotguns and instructed that we would be escourted to the forest park headquarters two hours drive away. There faces held stern look initially but they quickly warmed to us, we drank tea and held their guns. One officer traveled in our vehicle while we followed jj and his new found friends in the pilot vehicle. JJ liked their trucks curtains.
Back in Joshimath we filled out lots of forms, written statements, were interviewed individually and we debated our case with the Forest Park director. This began at 4pm and we retired to the Forest Park/Police/Army compound and were detained for the night at 2am. With maximum fines a potential court hearing and two month imprisonment over our heads we continued on with the interrogation and finally walked away with a fine of 20,000 rupees/ $500 US. This is the average annual income in India.
We had broken no laws or legislation as there is none for kayaking. We are bit confussed with what we actually did wrong, maybe trespassing as we allowed on the road but no in the tress off the road….
Anyway we were all a bit fired up after a really long day with not alot of sleep and 30 hours with one meal. At least the next team here wont have the same trouble.
“India consumes you, its never quiet, never slows down and is always in your face”
The next day we pulled a 12 day old body from the Alaknanda river. Thirteen people had plunged in an overloaded bus. With kayaks and ropes we recovered the man and handed himback to his grieving family. They would then be able to collect insurance money.We finished the 18km section of big volume whitewater but none of us were that focused on the river. My brain had no more room, our thoughts were elsewhere.
We are now in the far east of Uttaranchal. Yesterday we scouted the Pindar river to no avail in the morning. In the pm we drove to the banks of the Gali Ganga. We have high hopes for this river this week before we cross the border into Nepal.
Words by Zak Shaw
mission completed Uttaranchal
Our team has just arrived in Kathmandu (Nepal), for what is the end of our first leg of the trip.
Since being detained we have managed to cover some good ground and knock of some more classics as we have headed east. This time we put in some extra effort to make friends with the police in the region before hitting the rivers!
We spent some time exploring the Pinda and Sarju drainages, but our main achievments have been to paddle what we believe to be the first descent of the Eastern Dhauli Ganga. This is one of the major tributaries of the Maha Kali, (which forms the border between India and Nepal).
The Dhauli proved intense from the word go, running at aproximately 30 cummecs and a continuous gradient of about 60m/km. Big, fast rapids lead relentlessly into one another, often forcing the team to run large sections of difficult water blind. We managed to complete an 8km section from the road head to the dam, but unfortunately as we were running out of time did not have the possiblity to trek above the road head the explore the upper river.
With only one day remaining we ran a known classic section of the Ghali Ganga (another tributary to the Kali), before making the long 3 day drive to Kathmandu.
We now have 4 days in Nepal to eat as much as we can at the rodeo event, before we start on our second leg of the trip in Arunachal Pradesh.
Mission 2, Arunachal Pradesh
On the 18th we will set off for another long drive, to get the 1500km on bad roads to Arunachal Pradesh, in the far North East of India. This is a region set aside from the main bulk of India, sandwiched between Bhutan, Bangladesh and China. Arunanchal has only opened up for travelers in the past few years, and with only short term permits available, the area is still largely unexplored. Not much travel information is available about this large province of India, and the Lonley Planet guidebook only dedicates a single page to it.
There is the most concentrated number of rivers anywhere in India in Arunachal Pradesh, and it is believed there is enough Hydro-power potential to power the whole of india. This of course means there are already plans to Dam many of the drainages, so time is short for exploration here.
Our team for this trip will be Sam Hughes (UK), Zak Shaw (NZ), Shalabh Gahaut (India), Mikey Abbot (NZ), Al Ellard (UK) and Andy Phillips (UK).
Blogs:
www.adventuresinpacland.blogspot.com
www.passion4adventure.blogspot.com
Websites:
www.paclandphoto.com
Stories
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